Camino de Santiago

11 March 2013 – Paris to Bayonne then onto St. Jean Pied de Port

So for those of you wondering when we actually get to start the Camino proper (especially those that care), we first need to get to the beginning. From Bayonne we took the local train 1.5 hours to St. Jean Pied de Port, the starting point of the “French Way” or Camino de Santiago in Spain. The train follows a river that comes out of the mountains between France and Spain.

We crossed over to the old town and found our way to the Pilgrim Office where you pick up your pilgrim passport or “Credencial del Peregrino”, availability of accommodation and safety notices about which routes are open crossing the Pyrenees. The high route or Route de Napoleon was closed until May because of the late winter. We were advised to take the lower route to Roncesvalles.

All sorted with Camino Scallop shell and passport and found an Albergue de Peregrinos (youth hostel for pilgrims) to stay for the night. It all starts tomorrow……..

Tues 12.03.13 St. Jean – Roncesvalles

The 1st night in an Albergue bunkroom on the Camino included all of the usual farting, orchestral snoring, muttering and wriggling which culminated in an alarm going off at 6 f#@king o’clock in the morning. Not only was it still really dark but I was also still really tired. The boy and I were pretty much the last ones up, the last ones to breakfast and almost the last ones to leave.

Kevin Inter-webed at the pilgrim office before leaving. Apart from Kevin’s cellphone, a Kobo Glo and the camera we didn’t have any other technology. Armed with the Ron Brierley guide book and a sense of adventure we ventured off. Our first action was to redirect a young Korean woman who we found going in the wrong direction. The young lady may have lacked a map or a reliable sense of direction but she was the most enthusiastic and happy person we met on the entire journey. We had the privilege of walking with her for many more days on the Camino.

Mountain crossing was closed, we took the road and scenic sidling tracks instead. 24 kms along country roads, paths next to the main road but also through quite pleasant bush areas. It ain’t tramping! We had a lovely cooked lunch in a Cafe along the way. Walked with Martin Down , 이 은행 , and a Sth African couple, Natasha and (I’ll remember his name soon) and mingled with most of those who we had stayed with.

Had a bit of a climb over the top but it was all pretty easy for us. The Albergue we were aiming for in Roncesvalles was in a huge old Chateau with bunk rooms on 3 floors. Only a couple of rooms were open but were packed. Went out for a Pilgrim meal at the local restaurant. Met everyone we would eventually walk with over the next few days. There was a Kiwi couple with us – Richard and Tracey. Can’t mention their last name as he was a special op Cop back home. Met the other members of our “Herd” (I’ll explain more about the Herd over the next few days). Although we had crossed snow and it was cold, the weather had been overall pretty good all day. Things were looking good , fate however would return with a vengeance tomorrow…….

Before going to bed we should have had an inkling that things were about to get somewhat problematic…….we experienced the most awesome lightening and thunder show followed by what we thought was a wee bit of gentle snow………until we got up the next morning……

Wed 13.03.13 Roncesvalles – Larrasoana

So, my diary starts with “Fu#k did it snow overnight! Before deciding to do the Camino at this time I had researched the weather and temperature etc. Spring is usually a bit wet but by mid-March is far enough south in Europe to have warmed up. 15 – 20 degrees during the day, a bit cooler in the night. I had my summer (read non-waterproof) trekking shoes so I was forced to put my feet into plastic bags to stay dry. The Sth African couple went a step further and made plastic snow gaiters.

Some idiots in the next bunkroom got up at 5:30am and came into our room to use the bathroom (which was next to my bunk) – mental note to self “don’t sleep next to the bloody bathroom door”. Up at 7am, tiny bread-based breakfast and then off into the freezing cold with every piece of gear I had in my pack (except the down jacket I kept in reserve). With such a tiny breakfast we decided we needed 2nd breakfast and 11’sies and taught all our companions that these were requirements of anyone coming from NZ, including Hobbits. This became part of our herds daily ritual and lasted all the way across Spain. The time was spent primarily road walking as we couldn’t safely navigate the deep fresh snow drifts on the scenic routes. It was actually really pretty. I have never spent the entire day walking through the snow before. We only took the final scenic detour on our route to Larrasoana so we probably walked about 30kms all up. Only the Municipal Albergue was open. Not flash, no hot water and no heating during the night. Kevin cooked a lovely meal for us and the other Kiwi couple. Only 12 pilgrims had made it this far, 10 others had left with us but were nowhere to be seen. Luckily we only had heavy snowfall, can’t wait for what happens tomorrow………

Day 3 Larrasoana to Pamplona

Only 15kms but what a day……….we had done cold and snow but hadn’t really encountered Blizzard……….that is until today. It did improve closer to Pamplona……those photos next.

Blizzards really have a way of bringing people together. Nothing like a significant weather event to help bind pilgrims together. On our way to Pamplona, we were hassled by snow clearing machines. The wind created heaps of snow blow and yes it was bitterly cold. Once the weather improved slightly we took a couple of scenic routes and even managed a historic church visit. Had 11’sies and hot coffee to ward off the cold. Eventually, after clearing somewhat the rain came instead of the snow as we entered Pamplona and searched for an Albergue.

We eventually decided to stay at the largest Albergue in town (117 beds) although only one dorm wing was open being offseason (7Euro). This had HOT showers and heating! After checking in we walked the city through the afternoon and evening and had a delightful 3 course Pilgrim meal for only 9Euro. The photos are pretty good. Maja (one of the Herd) had to buy stuff to send to a friend in Canada – this also meant a visit to the Post Office where we were rewarded with an additional stamp for our Pilgrim Passport. These passports get stamped at Albergues with official stamps. However we realised that pubs, cafes, bakeries, pharmacies and all sorts of places had stamps – so started the competition to get as many stamps as possible. Would the weather get better tomorrow?…….

Day 4 – Pamplona to Puente La Reina 24kms

Strangely the guide book wants pilgrims to stay in a place called Cizur Menor instead of Pamplona but the Albergue there said it was private so we didn’t believe it would be open in the offseason.

Anyway, the weather dawned perfectly! Bugger the forecast! Nice pilgrim breakfast then off through Pamplona and out into the countryside. Climbed gently up to a set of wind turbines and the really famous pilgrim monument in the film (see photos). Kevin had bought stuff for us to have as 11sies. Across the top of the hill, down the other side and into a village for late 11sies.

Our Herd was now complete with our 6th member joining our happy little band. Alec and Maja, Martin, Barbora (from the Czech Republic), Kevin (now dubbed the navigator) and myself. Martins’ knees decided to die so we stopped as suggested by the guide book in Puente La Reina.

Hot showers but no other heating. Wandered around the lovely village, had a pilgrim dinner with the Herd and Kevin taught us how to play Presidents and Bastards (which became a daily occurrence for the Herd).

Day 5 – Puente La Reina to Estella 20kms

Diary says……”bloody colder inside than out! Martins alarm didn’t go off so we didn’t get up until 7:30am. Good sleep though. B’fast in a lovely pastry shop.”

By now we definitely had developed into a Herd, a group of people with a common purpose who looked out for each other. The Herd was refreshingly accepting of the fact I was (almost) twice as old as the next oldest pilgrim in the Herd.

After walking through a large agricultural valley we had 11’sies by a village. Maja and Martin had to visit the pharmacy – Martin for knee braces and Maja got ankle supports.

Walked in Estella when the rain started up again. The Albergue had heating! and nice hot showers – oh the joys of modern comforts. Out for dinner, watched Wales thrash England 33-3. Played Presidents and Assholes, I must have been getting the hang of this as my Diary says “was the President for 9 of the 10 rounds” 🙂

Day 6 Estella to Sansol 28.1 kms

This is the night we were tricked into staying in an Albergue that turned out to be colder than the inside of a Tip Top factory (Ice cream factory). So, let’s start from the beginning……..it’s actually Sunday morning 6 years ago 17/03/2013. We were woken at 6am by 2 guitars playing “singing guys” serenading the pilgrims staying at the Albergue. Hello, some of us aren’t going to the early church service because we aren’t religious pilgrims!

Left early and had 1st breakfast at a Service Station. Pouring down with rain, plastic bags in my shoes again. The Wine Fountain is real! See the photos. Open valley walking followed by beautiful bush walk…..a bit muddy. Coffee for 11’sies then down the road for a meal. One herd member was struggling with munted knees and feet. Got the end of the day’s map in Los Arcos and had a wee break – decided we would carry on to the next village to shorten the day after.

Walked 7kms to a place called Sansol. Martin and Maja were pretty tired and sore. We are met by a woman who takes us to her Albergue. In Kevin’s defence, he preferred to go the 1 km to the next Albergue but the Herd voted to stay put. Bought food and made pasta for dinner. First time I ever needed to use my beanie and hood on my sleeping bag just to stay warm (I have a 3 season bag). 6 Euros, good deal? We’ll know tomorrow……

Day 7 – Sansol to Logrono 20.8kms

It’s soo cold in here……..how can it be so cold inside and yet warmer outside? The Albergue owner never turned up in the morning with the coffee and biscuits. Walked the 1 km to the next village (yes, where Kevin had wanted to stay) and there it was, ultra cool Albergue, proper coffee machine, supermarket shop in the place, breakfast, hot showers and heating……..bugger!

Super windy and undulating terrain had 11’sies in a small village and lunch in Viana. Martin was struggling quite a bit, knees had died. I remember carrying his pack for a while (4kms) – that’s you do when you’re part of the Herd.

Checked into the Municipal Albergue, Kevin and I went Camera shopping and had Burger King – our first none pilgrim meal on the Camino. Diary says “went to bed while Kevin Skyped Melina and Mama – 2 snorers already battling for supremacy”.

John Brierley’s Camino guide provides day by day guidance on all things Camino. He includes a section each day on “Personal Reflections”. Kevin, as Navigator and chief guide follower, would read these to the Herd during the day. Today’s example is pretty classic – “…the deepening lines on her ageing face cannot hide her welcoming smile. Her name means happiness and she has welcomed pilgrims for decades giving her blessing and stamping credenciales………..we all have the right to bestow blessings – perhaps it is our primary duty”. Tomorrow, the future of the Herd comes into question……..

Day 8 Logrono to Najera 30kms

Diary starts with “5 snorers overnight – probably my worst nights sleep so far”. After 7 days it was all too much for our Herd mate from Guernsey, Martin Down. Martin decided to have the day off and sort out his munted legs. I guess it’s not so important for Accountants to do a lot of walking. Maja and Alec had stayed in a cosy private accommodation place instead of hanging with us in the Albergue. Considering the snoring I wouldn’t blame them. One sleeping bag shared between two every night is also not a huge recipe for heaps of quality sleep.

The deal was that Maja and Alec would leave really early and we would catch up with them. Strange that the Herd wasn’t starting out from the same place at the same time. We walked with Barbora and managed to do 20kms by 1:30pm. Had 1st breakfast, 11’sies and 2nd breakfast by the time we got to Ventosa. We have been travelling through the Wine region for the past couple of days and spent most of the day by Vinyards except for the flock of sheep (see photos) – it was like sort of being in NZ.

The final 2 kms was walked through the industrial zone of Najera along hard footpaths. My feet were really sore for some reason – perhaps it had something to do with the 28kms I had already walked. Didn’t stay in the Municipal Albergue, we got a smallish bunkroom in a private Albergue, hot showers, heating……nice! Finally Alec and Maja arrived and we went out for dinner with some of the other Pilgrims. I went to bed (exhausted) while Kevin transferred photos to our memory stick and skyped Melina.

Day 9 Najera to Santo Domingo De Calzada 21kms

Still in the wine district, 4 days now. Peregrino breakfast – coffee, fruit juice and a Pastry. Absolutely classic Camino walking (see photos). A hugely sad outcome of the Global financial crisis, an entire new town bankrupt and empty (see photos). Imagine this town has capacity for 10,000 people, its all new and totally empty.

Really nice day finished in a really nice village at an Albergue run by the church with donations. A guy there did Physiotherapy on a huge queue of Pilgrims – by now many pilgrims were pretty screwed, munted knees, feet, hips, ankles etc. Martin Down left Logrono today and hopefully he’ll catch up with us. My Diary says “hopefully can sleep tonight – we’re in the snorer room”.

Day 10 Santo Domingo De Calzada – Belorado 23kms

Wow! Wore shorts today……not all day and everyone thought we were plain crazy – “dumb Kiwis”. Today I realised that since Estella (Day 5) the Camino had become “normal”. Wake up to Kevin’s irritating alarm ring tone from his cell phone, get up, get ready, get out of the Albergue, find a Cafe for pilgrim breakfast or a pastry shop for coffee and chocolate pastry (usually heated with the chocolate sort of running out of the end when you take the first bite).

What do you do all day? Walk. What are you going to do tomorrow? Walk some more. And after that? More walking. I love it! Having said that today the diary says “first boring walking day”. We are walking on the plains, often near roads and with nothing growing in the agricultural areas the track is pretty boring.

Had a wee haircut and beard trim at a woman’s hairdressers. Interesting with my lack of Spanish skills. Kevins is better (he can do Spanish gestures more clearly) and managed to get a nice cut. Dinner out late, early to bed for me. Maja’s strapping appeared to be really successful but things were a bit tender at the end of the day. Martin txt’ed to say he was just one day behind us.

Day 11 Belorado – St Juan de Ortega 23kms

Amazing day, what a mixture in weather, terrain, views and temperature. Breakfast at the Albergue then set off to find another cafe. Second breakfast a few kms down the road. Bought some food at a Supermercardo to eat on the track later. The day had started clear enough but by 1pm it began to rain as we climbed up the hilly area to the monuments. The monuments are actually memorials to the memory of those that were killed by Franco assassins during the Civil War in 1936 (see photos).

Rain stopped long enough for us to have lunch at the memorials then off we went through a forested area. Rain turned to hail and for 2 hours we got frozen and drenched. We arrived at the Albergue looking pretty buggered (see photo). My diary mentions “had a nap in my sleeping bag to warm up” after which we went for a lovely pilgrim meal next door with a super warm fire roaring the corner.

It was also day 3 of a nasty head cold which wasn’t getting any better. Beautiful weather in the evening. Off to Burgos tomorrow!

Day 12 St Juan de Ortega – Burgos 25.6kms

For those of you who have just begun to follow these posts, I have written daily of my Camino walk from exactly one year ago. Today is the day we walked to Burgos, tomorrow is Palm Sunday…..but more about that tomorrow.

Machine coffee was all we could get, this and my mandarin with some leftover chocolate was 1st breakfast. 3.8kms down the road and we had a huge 2nd breakfast in a tiny village. Walked over the big hill with the cross on it and then over endless terracotta mud/slush (see the sandal photos).

Finally made it to the main road and had lunch at the start of the industrial area on the outskirts of Burgos. The 7kms through the industrial area was murder on my feet. My head cold was getting worse so I talked Kevin into having a day off in Burgos. As you can only stay 1 night in an Albergue we found a private Pension to stay at. Kevin not happy with us having a day off :(. The herd were all staying an extra night and Martin would join us tomorrow.

City is awesome. Lots of night life. Heaps of people as its Palm Sunday tomorrow.

Day 13 Burgos (day off) Palm Sunday. 0.0kms (apart from heaps of wandering around)

Slept in (private hostel) and had 1st breakfast at 10am. 2nd Breakfast at 11am in a Cafe in the central square. Played cards and then watched the Palm Sunday parade. Photos are pretty stunning, who would have guessed we would accidentally be in Burgos in the 3rd most festive day of the Spanish celebration calendar.

Checked into the main Albergue and was just negotiating an extra bed for thepossibility of Martin joining us and there he was! The Herd was back together. Out for dinner to celebrate. Did our 2nd proper batch of washing for the entire Herd at the Albergue (first since Pamplona).

Because of taking the day off, a few of the pilgrims we started with carried on walking – you know who you are. Some we caught up before the end, some we didn’t. A special thought or our Korean friend 이 은행 who we ended up missing in Santiago by only 1 day. Kevin to this day is still complaining that I was such a pussy for needing a day off.

The spookiest thing of the parades were all the people wearing KKK hats. Apparently appropriate in these religious occasions. Tomorrow we start to walk again……….

Day 14 Burgos – Hornillos del Camino 21kms.

“On the road again”! Walked the streets looking for coffee and pastries. Great to be walking again and making progress – shame about the weather 😦 . Started out overcast, turned to rain with wind which pretty well remained all the way to Hornillos. Even 11’sies weren’t playing the game and weren’t very nice.

Arrived in Hornilos wet and cold. Had a coffee at a cafe and checked into the Albergue. Diary says “jumped into my sleeping bag and had a lovely wee nap”….your never to young to enjoy a good nap. On the good news front my cold was at last getting better, perhaps the day off had helped (thanks Kevin). Out for dinner and lots of cards with the Herd. Early night for me! Only 21 kms today, but wait to see how many we do tomorrow……

Day 15 Hornillos del Camino – Itero de la Vega 32kms

Big day today! 1 and a half maps in the guide book. No breakfast in the village, snack and machine coffee then 10kms to 2nd breakfast in the next village. Day started out dry but soon turned to light rain which stayed with us all day. Ham, egg and chips with a pizza chaser for 2nd breakfast.

A further 12kms took us to the end of the guide book map for the day but we decided to carry on halfway across the next days map and do another map and a half the following day as the guide books days were really short (only 20 odd kms per day). It was only 1:30pm when we got to the end of the map anyway so what else was there to do but keep walking….

After a wee climb over a wee hill and down the other side we ventured into our village. Not a big place, not alot of accommodation options. The Municipal Albergue was pretty bleak (first time I met the lovely woman from Italy Roberta Martinucci and Gloria Grassi) so we walked about a bit until some random guy turns up in a car and invites us to stay at this private Albergue.

Oh, Kevin spent the day in his sandals walking through the muddy farming area tracks to confused looks of the locals. Anyway, we went shopping, Maja and Kevin cooked dinner for everyone. Walked with a Croatian guy today – he joined us for dinner. Afterwards he and Kevin went to the pub and watched Spain vs France.

My cold is totally gone! Yippeee!

Day 16 Itero de la Vega – Carrion de los Condes 34.6kms

Second 30km day in a row, biggest km day yet! 2 and a half maps of the guide book again. Unbelievable! Woke to find no electricity on at the Albergue and a locked kitchen. Kevin eventually found a key and we sneaked into the kitchen, heated up some leftovers and had a huge breakfast.

Walking track was almost the entire time next to the road. Surface was less muddy than the day before. Made pretty quick progress. The diary says “the day turned into a blurr of kms, stopped for lunch and the occasional coffee”. Got to our destination late, checked in then went out for dinner. Still drizzling with occasional rain.

For the past days and for the next few (the middle section of the Camino) you spend all day on the plains – its flat, very flat. With no crops growing yet the terrain isn’t very exciting. If you’re from NZ you’d probably think its boring. Luckily from my perspective I’m here for the journey and the people, the landscape isn’t so important – it’s all about the walking 🙂

Day 17 Carrion de los Condes – Terradillos de los Templarios 26.8kms

Happy Birthday Maja! Up and left early. Coffee at the local Service Station. Heaps of “day walker” local pilgrims as it’s Easter week. Must have watched about 75 walk past in groups with day packs. I felt sort of violated that there were so many people on my Camino. We had until then had between 10 and 15 pilgrims on the trail per day (plus some cyclists).

Diary says “boring day, flat wide track (see photos) next to the road, countryside is pretty enough but there is no change to the landscape or to walking motion”. We walked 17kms to have 11’sies at 12oclock with a huge meal. 10kms later and was ready to finish the day. Kevin as usual wanted to continue but it was Maja’s B’day and the Herd had agreed to stay here and celebrate. Ante (the Croatian) carried on to try and catch up with his mate – nice guy, interesting to talk with 🙂

Got the Herds clothes washed and dried Martin Down, your towel did it again), showered, updated the diary, transferred the photos onto the memory stick, played cards and celebrated the B’day. Nice evening! Martin got a rude reminder of the power of our Czech Republic Herd member…….but that’s another story. Caught up with Tiger Lilly and Sophie.

Day 18 Terradillos de los Templarios – El Burgo Ranero 30kms

Crossed into the Provence of Leon. During the night one of the Herd got really crook (Barbora). Some of the Herd stayed with Barbora and Kevin and I left – we had agreed to split as Kevin wanted to travel a bit quicker than the rest of the Herd (young people, always want to do things in a rush 🙂 ) Sadly we took off from the Herd and searched for a place to have 1st Breakfast. Found a brand new Albergue run by a German woman and her Spanish husband that had an awesome Cafe serving yummy breakfast foods. Nice!

Next we found where the Hobbit scene comes from – that is the design for Hobbiton (see photos). Carried on to the next town and had pastries with Coffee, met up with the rest of the Herd minus Barbora who had stayed behind at the Albergue to recover. Walked all day pretty well in the rain and gale force winds towards the end of the day. Took the road with T-Lilly and Sophie and ended up at our Albergue pretty wet and cold. Nice wood burner at the Albergue.

The Herd arrived and we went out for dinner. Just then Barbora turns up, still crook but had forced marched herself 30kms in one day – people from the Czech Republic are certainly pretty tough.

Day 19 El Burgo Ranero – Arcahueja 29kms.

The suns shining! Yippeee! Shame the locals partied all night long in a club/pub across the road – apparently a wedding. I must have slept, right? Breakfast in the Cafe across the road then……….walking!

Stopped for 11’sies in a village 8kms up the road – coffee and pastries. Lunch in the next town, nice, then through 2 more villages till our end destination. Nice Albergue, pub for the locals out the front, accommodation for pilgrims out the back – all quite new. Dog was cute.

Very sad for me, Kevin and I leave the herd tomorrow in Leon. We need to speed up if we are to visit Barcelona etc after our walk. So a final dinner, cards again and then an early night.

By my estimation we are halfway to Finisterre. 18 walking days 450kms. We speed up quite a bit the next 450kms……..

Day 20 Arcahueja thru Leon – Villar de Mazarife 30.6 kms.

Huge day! Easter Sunday in Leon, sadly left the Herd, 30+ day 180kms+ in 6 days.

Daylight savings today, Tiger Lilly and Sophie left in the dark, put their clocks wrong. We left heaps later, had Breakfast at the Albergue then left to do our 7kms to the out-skirts of Leon. Weather absolutely lovely. The city is rocking with parades and the costumes are fantastic! Jesus has a huge 6 pack and Maria is looking pretty healthy. KKK everywhere in the parade.

The Herd checked into an Albergue ( no mixed dorms – sorry Alec and Maja). Wondered around then coffee with the Herd before heading off. Very sad goodbyes!

It’s amazing to think we had walked thru blizzards, pouring rain, hail storms and sunshine – slept together, ate together, laughed and played cards together – gave each other shit and took the micky but most all, we did it together – as a Herd should. I salute you and thanks for accepting me even though I was definitely old enough to be your old man. Love you guys!

Diary says, “Herd got the day off – I don’t”. Walked with the lovely Italians Gloria and Roberta until we stopped for early dinner. We had to walk 22kms after leaving Leon. It began to pour down as we finally arrived at an Albergue at 7:30pm (our latest arrival) and found we had caught up with Tiger Lilly and Sophe. Dinner and a beer then bed. Kevin still had the energy to do Internet stuff. Woken at 11:30pm with it raining in our room, had to move all our stuff.

Day 21 Camino part II Villar de Mazarife – Astorga 31.2kms.

The big days continue kms wise as we leave the Herd behind. Breakfast with Tiger Lilly and Sophie at the Albergue. Weather was stunning, didn’t change the fact we still wore our Gortex all day (see photos). Took the scenic route again, nicer than the track next to the road. 11’sies at a Cafe then Kevin finally found a Post Office that was open so he could send his boots home (got huge blisters).

Later in the day we stopped at an Albergue with a lovely courtyard and had a late lunch. Met the famous “David” who runs a Cantina on the trail from donations (see photo). Took an age getting to Astorga and finally checked into a nice Albergue. Out for a lovely dinner, T-Lilly’s last night on the Camino :(. We will walk with Sophie until she also has to leave.

First day without the Herd Martin Down , Alec, Maja and Barbora feeling strange like they will turn up any minute. No more g-strings stuck on Martins towel, ah memories…..

Day 22 Astorga – Foncebadon 26.7kms.

Up late, T-Lilly’s last day on the Camino 😦 Left the Albergue and walked 5kms to breakfast in a lovely cafe to farewell a special Camino friend who had been with us since the beginning in St Jean Pied de Port. After breakfast Tiger Lily went back to Astorga to catch her bus while we carried on towards the high point of the Camino (which we cross tomorrow).

Climbed all day slowly up, only 500 metres vertical over the entire 26kms but different from our pretty constant flat walking before. Weather fine but cold, surrounding mountains all snow covered. Forecast for 2 days time is snow again lowering to 500m just when we head into the hills again.

The Albergue we stayed at got the “Cosiest Rural Albergue” award from us. The open fireplace was just fantastic. Huge dinner served in the Albergue. Did washing, showered, postcards and went gratefully to bed. Met a new Pilgrim, this time from Estonia ( Kristel )- never met an Estonian before. Wonder how “The herd” are getting on – Alec, Maja, Martin Down and Barbora

Day 23 Foncebadon – Ponferrada 27kms.

Really nice Albergue, awesome fireplace, lovely people. Shared Breakfast at the Albergue. Outside, a tad misty and freezing cold (see photos). Climb up and over the highest point on the Camino “Le Cruz de Ferro” (see photos), I wonder what it looks like on a nice day?

Walked 12kms to 2nd breakfast – met the group of French Canadian school kids walking a week of the Camino. Walked with our new Estonian pilgrim ( Kristel ) and our lovely Italian friends Gloria and Roberta My big toe issue turned into a very painful down hill experience. The knuckle on my big toe was inflamed – probably from over use. No excuses!

I should have changed into my sandals to relieve the pain but instead told Kevin I wanted to walk on my knees by the time we eventually reached our Albergue. Flash new looking place. Kevin cooked, after going with the girls shopping. We had pilgrim pancakes, very yummy! Everyone went out except for me, happy to rest, do my diary and have an early night (yeah Kevin – I’m getting old).

During the afternoon we met a Frenchman who had walked from southern France along the coastal Camino to Santiago (900kms) and decided to walk back to France along the French Way. He was in his 70’s maybe 80 years old. Check out his photo! Respect!

Hope the Herd has good weather, Alec, Maja, Martin Down and Barbora.

Day 24 Ponferrada – Trabadelo 35.8kms

The longest day so far……We woken by a zealot who turned the lights on in every room to get people up. The rule for Albergues is that you’ve got to out by 8:30am but that doesn’t mean you can come around and turn lights on. Breakfast at the Albergue. This city has the last remaining fully restored Templar Castle – awesome (see photos).

Left the city with Kristel, Gloria and Roberta plus Sophie, her last day on the trail :(. Kevin wanted to go off the map and do a 30+km day. We had decided not to do the “Dragon Way” as the forecast wasn’t very good and the distance was considerably longer. Got hit by a heavy rain shower while walking through a small wine area. Had missed proper 2nd breakfast and had a really late lunch which made the day even longer.

The final 10kms we followed a huge river up a valley with a motorway crisscrossing overhead. The road was actually quite pleasant with river views and some bush. Kevin had super sore shins today, the worst shin day so far. Arrived at the Albergue, pretty tiring day. Kristel stayed at some other Albergue. Took Sophie out for dinner but she and Kevin were sort of speaking in tongues so we had an early night. This Albergue got the award for “Best Shower”. I think Padmavadi and Loic were at the Albergue and Joseph the Korean Doctor who we walked with later.

Day 25 Trabadelo – Fonfria 32kms

And just when you thought it was now April and we’re in sunny Spain you’d think the weather would be getting better ……. hahaha……take a LOOK at the photos.

Alarm at 7am, up, packed and down to the lovely cafe for a farewell breakfast with Sophie :(. She has to go home and study for exams. Will catch up with her when we visit Germany before going home. Kristel had already headed off, she was going to O’Cebreiro and then the following day to Samos. Would our paths cross again…..?

We had an awesome breakfast and left sadly at 9am as we had a huge day ahead of us. We were also aware the forecast was for the freezing level to lower to 500metres. Although starting at 600metres, we would spend most of the day the above 1000metres climbing eventually to 1,330metres – but hey, this is Spain and its Spring time!

We were leaving Castella Leon and moving into Galicia the final province of our journey. We had heard that scenery wise this was in some ways sort of similar to parts of NZ. Must admit it was much more scenic then what we had experienced to date. Having walked 25kms with drizzle turning to snow turning onto blizzard Kevin suggested we do an extra 7kms to the next Albergue. With gritted teeth I carried on and we eventually made it to a lovely private Albergue. Had dinner, warmed up then had an early night. Our 2nd Herd is in the process of being formed….more tomorrow.

Heard over the interweb thru Kevin that the Herd had split. Alec and Maja didn’t make it all the way over the mountains to Ponferada but Martin Down and Barbora had.

Day 26 Fonfria – Sarria 27.7kms

Freezing level over night 500m, Albergue at 1200m. Do the Maths! Cosy inside as we had breakfast in the Albergue – freezing cold and icy outside. An American woman who had warned us about her snoring spent most of the night making my bunk vibrate and she was 5 bunks away – not surprisingly she explained in the morning that she was single – go figure. I suggested throat lubricant, Kevin suggested some other recipes :).

First time in 26 days that Kevin and I left the Albergue 1st! So cold and slippery we spent the first half hour arm in arm supporting each other. 2nd breakfast at the bottom of the hill, 9kms later. Pleasant walking once we emerged from the frozen cloud level. Walked with what would become the rest of Herd #2 (except for Kristel who had popped over to Samos the day before) Joseph, a doctor from Korea, Shinya Hagio, a newspaper editor from Japan, and a couple of other Koreans.

Also met the Norwegian Bible Class and leader, all were Kevin’s age…..Made it to Sarria, very nice walking and less than 30kms so all good by the time we got there. Picked up a new Compostela (pilgrim passport) as my 2nd one was now also full of stamps. Kevin and the Koreans cooked dinner after going shopping, my diary says “The bastard had also grabbed 4 stamps while out shopping but he bought me snacks so I can’t complain”. Not that stamp collecting was a competition. See next post of Sarria – I spent a couple of hours at the Saturday market.

Day 26 Sarria Saturday Market

This is the last big town/city before we get to Santiago. The market was really awesome. I got to swan around for ages and really enjoyed myself. Galician’s are a Celtic people. Check out the photos of the Market.

Day 27 Sarria thru Portomarin – Gonzar 30.2kms

For a private Albergue strange that the heating didn’t really work. Cold, wanted to sleep in but couldn’t. The Koreans cooked some breakfast and gave us cornflakes. Left 8:15am thru the remainder of the historic part of town. Thank goodness no endless industrial area, we walked straight onto lovely rural farmlands.

The day was good, farm tracks and nice scenery. 11’sies in a lovely cafe with Joseph, Shinya and the two other Koreans. Lots more pilgrims on the trail, you only need to walk 100kms to get your Compostella in Santiago as long as you get 2 stamps per day. Hence heaps more pilgrims on my Camino – what were these people thinking? Walk a few days, get some stamps and you’ve done it?

Made it to a large lake “Embalse de Belesar” with the town of Portomarin across the bridge and up the hill. Had a coffee and then quickly headed up the track to Gonzor, our Albergue for the night. Gonzor wasn’t actually really a place, just a few farms and the Albergue. Really warm and the shower was awesome! After 30kms I had a wee nap, next minute, who walks in? Kristel (our Estonian friend) had walked 45kms to get here – amazing! This would be the first of 3 40km+ days out of 7. Dinner in the Cafe next door, early night – well deserved.

Day 28 Gonzor – Melide 32kms

Up at 7am, packed and next door for 1st breakfast – coffee and chocolate pastry. 10kms to 2nd breakfast, Bacon, eggs and coffee. Weather overcast with occasional rain. Galicia is actually really nice to walk in – tree lined farm lanes, rolling hill countryside, cattle and sheep with few crop fields.

11’sies at 1pm, not a huge meal but a really nice place. Walking with Herd #2, Joseph, Shinya, Kristel and Kevin, the Navigator. Another 10kms and we arrive in Melide. Lovely walking day – lovely group of people. Melide is a large town/city. Unpacked, shower and then out for dinner.

Went to a local delicacy restaurant which served Octopus. Met a Japanese family who Shinya had befriended. Mum, dad and 2 kids who were 3 and 5 years old. The family had already traveled around Mongolia, Peru, Canada and were now on the Camino. Fascinating. On our return to the Albergue we encountered 50 Spanish school kids checking in. Very loud! Kevin went out drinking with the boys (Joseph and Shinya) while I did my diary and postcards. I seem to remember that Kristel had a quiet discussion with one of the teachers about student behaviour. Things quietened down after that (midnight).

Day 29 Melide – O Pedrouzo 33.7kms

The 50 Spanish school kids eventually went to sleep and so did I (after midnight). Who needs sleep anyway? Up at 6:30am, everyone had snored through the night, even my ear plugs couldn’t keep the noise down. 1st Breakfast in the cafe across the road. Onto the road and straight away into a rural area – nice. Day started with rain, moved onto occasional heavy showers and ended with rain.

More little farm lanes, gum forests, mostly mature trees. Got to the Albergue a bit late. I remember Shinya and I desparate to stop for coffee as the day carried on. We had 2nd breakfast in a nice cafe and 11’sies later on.

The team went shopping and made a beautiful dinner together in the kitchen. Ate together with wine and beers at a long table in the Albergue. Tomorrow night we’ll be in Santiago………

Day 30 Part I O Pedrouzo – Santiago De Compostela 20.1kms

Short day :). Breakfast early at the Albergue. Raining as we left. Showers all day – a bit of a blur. 2nd Breakfast, more walking. Raining and windy the final 5kms to Santiago. So wet, cold and windy we couldn’t see Santiago from the massive sculpture above the city (Monta del Gozo). Photos in the rain, coffee in a cafe and then walked to the Cathedral in the centre of Santiago.

Day 30 Part II Santiago De Compostela

I didn’t do the Camino on Religious grounds, although you could say I did it for Spiritual and Physical reasons (and to hang out with the Boy). Hence Santiago didn’t hold that awe-inspiring sensation I witnessed with other Pilgrims. Yes, it was cool to get to Santiago, the Cathedral was huge, the Camino office was great and the city is pretty cool, but I wasn’t done – my goal was to walk to the Atlantic Ocean – to the lighthouse at Finisterre. We had walked 800kms but still had a 100kms to go. The job wasn’t yet over, we still had stuff to do.

Kristel missed Josephs farewell dinner as he wasn’t going any further and she was determined to go to Padron but would try to catch us up later. Found an Albergue and then went out for 1st and 2nd Dinner. Kevin went out with Joseph and Shinya after dinner while I went back to the Albergue to write my diary and go to sleep.

Thought a lot about the last 30 days, the 1st Herd (miss you guys), our other Camino friends and now our new Herd. I salute all that have gone before and those still to go. Respect!

Day 31 Santiago to Vilaserio 33.7kms. Woke in the middle of the night with a sneezing fit. Slept in until 7:30. Up late, packed and final breakfast with Joseph. Raining as we left with Shinya, got a bit directionally challenged before finally finding the right way to join the Finisterre trail. Relatively quickly out of town and into the countryside. Farm tracks very pleasant to walk on. After 11’sies the sun came out and I took my gortex jacket off.

While having early 2’sies in a Cafe, Kristel had sneaked past us and gone to the local Albergue looking for us. Quite by accident we bumped into her at an intersection in the – 5 minutes either way and we wouldn’t have see each other – lovely to have our Estonian Herd member back. Turns out Kristel will walk 40+kms today (again).

Soon after the rain came out with a vengeance – Milford Sound proportions. The track in places was impassable – flooded. Kevin got very muddy and wet in his sandals (my sandals). Eventually got to the place we’d planned, found a private Albergue but someone insisted we go to the Municipal one. Shit heap! Mold everywhere, no running water, leaking – horrible. We laughed at the ridiculousness of it. Rain started to pur down as we back tracked to the private Albergue.

Dinner then checked into the Albergue (cafe/pub owned by the Albergue owner). Happy to be eating warm food in the dry. Nice place. Plan for an early start tomorrow to do our 40+km day that Kevin has been planning for……can’t wait!

Day 32 Vilaserio – Cee 40.5kms.

Up at 6am, dark outside and raining. Snacks for 1st breakfast, 2nd breakfast with coffee in 9kms. Kevin had decided that he had to do at least one 40km day on the Camino. Today was that day so he forced a 58 year old Japanese man, his 48 year old dad and our Estonian school teacher (who had already walked more than 40kms twice in the past week) to walk 40kms all the way to Cee – those that didn’t want to walk were “Pussies”.

I’m not keen on the start in the dark thing and then have to walk 9kms to get coffee but I must confess watching the light improve and dawn appear (and eventually some sun) was pretty awesome. We had a huge 11’sies at 12:30pm, our halfway point. Rain had stopped and it was warm enough to take jackets off. Road walking stopped after lunch (thank goodness, my feet were dying and Kevin had my sandals).

Got to the intersection with the trail to Finisterre (Fisterra) and Muxia and went left. My diary says “the trail went on and on and on and on, and on….Finally saw the Atlantic Ocean – cool. Wound our way down the hill and onto Cee, found an Albergue and checked in – we were the only ones there. While everyone was showering I popped down to the waterfront and dipped my hand in, made it! Dinner at the Albergue then a pretty early night. Tomorrow is our last day on this Camino………

Day 33 Part I Cee – Finisterre

Today was the day! Breakfast 7am at the Albergue an off thru the slightly dark streets. Off to the “end of the world” and the end of our Camino. Nice walking once we had left Corcubion (next to Cee) and traveled up over the hill to Finisterre. Lunch in a lovely Cafe run by a German woman. Left our packs there as the Albergue doesn’t open till later and we need to get to the lighthouse and back in time for our bus back to Santiago.

Day 33 Part II Finisterre – the Lighthouse at the end of the World – Santiago

All of us excited – not long now till we get to the end of our Camino. Walked up the road to the lighthouse, past the 0.00km Camino pyramid and then onto view the Atlantic. Cliffs are step, wind is strong (like Wellington in a southerly) and the sensation of walking 900kms was pretty satisfying. Happy to have made it, mixed feelings over leaving such wonderful friends. Wondering how Herd #1 were getting on. Wondering how many people had stood at the end of Europe wondering similar things.

Back down the road, threw the stones I’d brought from New Zealand into the harbour with Kevin. Caught the bus (first time in 33 days we had not walked to our destination) back to Santiago. Went to the Albergue we stayed at before. Alec and Maja have made it to Santiago but Kevin couldn’t contact them so we didn’t meet up :(. Shower and then out for dinner. Sad to leave our 2nd Herd but glad for the time we had together. Back to the Albergue, packed and to bed. Got to get up tomorrow at 6am and catch the Airport bus to catch our flight to Barcelona.

Anyone who has followed my little journey with the “Boy” and want to do the Camino –

“JUST DO IT!”

DON”T SAY WHY YOU CAN’T DO IT – JUST DO IT!